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Charlie Schreiber, CSCS on Instagram: "Want to FULL CRIMP w/ Strength & Safety? Read This.👇 The Full Crimp is one of the most powerful, and risky, grip positions in climbing. A true game changer on small crimps. It generates more torque by improving joint alignment and passive tension, but also increases shear force on the A2 (and A3) pulley, compressive stress on the DIP joint, and strain on collateral ligaments and the volar plate (and A4). So here’s how to train it responsibly (and minimize
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Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. That means: ✅ More force ✅ Longer time to apply force ✅ Mechanically better grip when catching the next hold An open drag is great for conserving energy, but it limits upward drive and reduces force production time for the same re
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