With the opening of Dungeness crab season just days away, visions of crustacean happiness are floating through Bay Area diners’ heads. Crab cakes. Crab Louie. Crab pasta. Mmmm, crab everything. It’s ...

James Faustin dug his tongs into a tray of crispy meat scattered with bell peppers and wedged a chunk of it off the bone for a sample. The dark meat had a crackly texture that was dry, almost like ...